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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known high-end venues. But, tucked near the top among these culinary titans is a modest salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

A Surprise Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This honour has made the family totally shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” states the proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest shop securing such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.